Published: February 06, 2008 12:49 am            

Chinese New Year offers plenty to look forward to

Cooking column

NEWBURYPORT, Mass. — I can't think of a better place to live than in the lower Merrimack Valley. Salisbury and Plum Island beaches are in our backyard, Boston is a half-hour away, and the White Mountains are well within reach.

And then there are the seasons, which make for nice changes. Spring arrives, and my chives start popping up. Summertime comes, and the strawberries appear at Wheeler Brook Farm in Georgetown. In late summer and fall, peaches and apples load the branches at Cider Hill Farm in Amesbury. Winter follows | sooner than we'd like | and the snow falls with Christmas arriving.

Then, there's January and February.

I simply hate these two months. It's dark, cold, and those chives popping up in my garden seem like they'll never come. So I hunt for things to look forward to. This year, the Patriots gave us our money's worth. I look forward to St. Patrick's Day. While it's in March, it's my official start of spring, because I know if there's a snowstorm that follows it, it'll be quick to melt.

But before that, there's Mardi Gras and then Chinese New Year.

Chinese New Year has been gaining in popularity in recent years, especially in some school classrooms. Celebrated as a family affair, it's similar to Thanksgiving in some ways, although the celebration and feasting last 15 days.

I think the soups from China and the rest of Asia are some of the best. Many are simple to make, and what better way to warm up with family during the two months I hate than with a hot bowl of soup.



Bryan Eaton writes for The Daily News of Newburyport, Mass.



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Egg Drop Soup

I use fish sauce instead of soy sauce to flavor this. It's not fishy at all when added to soup and gives a nice depth of flavor. You can certainly use light soy or even salt instead.



5 cups chicken or vegetable stock, canned is fine

3 eggs, beaten

1 cup frozen baby peas

6 ounces crabmeat or canned shrimp, optional

4 scallions, sliced, whites separated from green

Pinch of white pepper

1 tablespoon fish sauce, or salt, to taste

Toasted sesame oil, optional

Bring the stock to a low simmer and add the white parts of the scallions with the white pepper and fish sauce. Simmer for three to four minutes, then add the peas and crab and simmer for two more minutes. Check for seasoning and add to taste.

Drizzle the egg slowly through the tines of a fork around the pot. Wait 10 seconds, then give the pot a slight stir. Serve and garnish with the green parts of the scallion and add a touch of the sesame oil, if using.

Makes four to five servings as a starter course.



Spicy Shrimp Soup



5 cups chicken stock

1 pound medium shrimp, 26/30 count

1 can straw mushrooms

4 stalks of lemon grass, large slice on the bias (see note)

1 teaspoon minced lemon zest

3 tablespoons fish sauce or to taste, or salt

1-2 jalapeno peppers, minced with seeds removed

Cilantro to garnish



Bring the stock to a simmer with the lemon grass for five to seven minutes. Add the jalapeno, fish sauce, lemon zest and straw mushrooms. Simmer for five more minutes, then add the shrimp and cook until done.

Garnish with the cilantro and serve.

Note: Lemon grass is occasionally found in area supermarkets and Asian markets. In this recipe, you don't eat the lemon grass; it's just a flavoring. You can use the juice of half a lemon instead.

Makes four to five servings as a starter course.



Beef and Noodle Soup

This dish is kind of a do-it-yourself deal with each diner choosing the amount of different ingredients they like. It's served as a main meal in a rather large soup bowl. The ingredients are per person, and you can certainly change the amounts added.



<1/4> to <1/3> pound finely sliced beef

1 pint beef or chicken stock

3-4 pieces of green lettuce

Handful of bean sprouts

1 cup of prepared rice noodles

1 tablespoon fish sauce or salt, to taste

1-2 scallions, chopped

Fresh chili pepper to taste

1 clove minced garlic

Oil

Cook the garlic in the oil until lightly browned and remove.

Soak the rice noodles in warm water until soft and pliable, like pasta done "al dente," then drain in a colander.

Bring the stock to an easy boil.

Line the bowl with the lettuce, then add the sprouts, scallions, chili pepper, beef, noodles and fish sauce. Pour the hot stock into the bowl and stir a bit to cook the beef.

Season to taste and top with the toasted garlic.

Makes one serving.

        

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